Esfahan
The Zayandeh Rud river watering gardens and fields with its numerous tributaries
along its 360 km. course, flows from west to east through the city, and divides
off Jolfa and some other suburbs from the main port of the city, but most of the
main attractions are to the north of the river.
The Bridge of Khaju or pole-i-Khaju, the most famous of Isfahan bridges, has roused
the admiration of travelers since the 17th century. There was an earlier bridge
across the river at the same spot, near the district of Khaju on the old Shiraz
road; this was probablybuilt in the reign of Timurian sovereign, one of the successors
of Tamerlane (15th century). The present structure was built by Shah Abbas II round
about 1650. It has 23 arches and is 436 feet long and 39 feet wide.
It is also a dam; sluice gates between the piers closed the canals, raising the water
level upstream so that large reserves could be collected for irrigating the surrounding
gardens. With its two stories of arcades with intersecting arches, its stone steps
downstream with the water cascading over them, and its two large pavilions in the
center- "The Prince' Parlors"- this bridge is a masterpiece of balance and harmony.
The outer side of the arcades is decorated with richly colored tiles, and the interior
of the pavilions with more recent paintings.
"Khaju Bridge"
The Bridge of Allahverdi Khan across the Zayandeh Rud is a continuation of Chahar Bagh,
the principal street in Isfahan. Built at the beginning of the 17th century at the
order of Shah Abbas, it is named after the general-a famous war- chief- who was put in
charge of the work. It is also called the Bridge of 33 Arches, or Si-O-Se Pol. It is
45 feet wide and 175 yards long but- although it is impressive looking- it does not have
the same archaeological or aesthetic interest as the two other bridges farther downstream.
"Si-o-se Pol"
This building -now a veritable museum of Persian painting and ceramics -was a pleasure
pavilionused for the king's entertainment's and receptions. It stands inside a vast royal
park, but relatively near the enclosure, and was built by Shah Abbas II round an earlier
building erected by Shah Abbas I. An inscription states that the decoration and frescoes
were finished in 1647. Only two large historical frescoes date from the later period of
the Zand dynasty. Unfortunately, the Chehel Sotun has been badly damaged since then,
especially when the Afghans occupied the town and covered the paintings with a thick coat
of whitewash. It is now being extensively restored under the aegis of the Institute Italiano
Per il Medio Orient.
The pavilion opens onto the gardens by means of an elegant terrace, only a few steps high
and supported by slender, delicate wooden pillars. In reality, there were never more than
twenty columns, but they were reflected in the pool in the park, and so the Persian liked
to call the building the "pavilion with forty columns" (besides, the number 40 had a symbolic
meaning in Persia and expressed respect and admiration).
"Chehel Sotun"
The name Ali Qapu, "Magnificent Gate", was given to this place as it was right at the entrance
to the Safavid palaces which stretched from the Maidan Naqsh-i-Jahan to the Chahar Bagh Boulevard.
The building, another wonderful Safavid edifice, was built by decree of Shah Abbas the Great in
the early seventeenth century. It was here that the great monarch used to entertain noble visitors,
and foreign ambassadors. Shah Abbas, here for the first time celebrated the Now - ruz (New Year's
Day) of 1006 AH / 1597 A.D. A large and massive rectangular structure, the Ali Qapu is 48 meters
high and has six floors, fronted with a wide terrace whose ceiling is inlaid and supported by wooden
columns.
The 18 columns of the hall are covered with mirrors and its ceiling is decorated with great
paintings. The chancellery was stationed on the first floor. On the sixth, the royal reception
and banquets were held. The largest rooms are found on this floor. The stucco decoration of the
banquet hall abounds in motif of various vessels and cups. The sixth floor was popularly called
"the music room". Here various ensembles performed music and sang songs. From the upper galleries,
the Safavid ruler watched polo, maneuvers and the horse-racing opposite the square of Naqsh-i-Jahan.
"Ali Qapo seen from Naqsh-i-Jahan Square"
The Hasht Behesht (The Eight Paradise Palazzo) is an octagonal structure, typical of many royal
palaces in Isfahan. Commissioned by Shah Sulieman, it was built about 1669 (about A.H. 1081).
The garden, is visible at all times through the great arches, is an integral part of the structure.
The domed ceiling of the main reception room is painted in purple on a glittering gold base, while
above the windows, in the lantern dome, fragments of mirror sparkle in the light.
"Hasht Behesht garden and palace"
The tombstone of Amu Abdollah bears the Hijrah date of 716 A.H. (1316 A.D.) and two minarets, one
on either side of the mausoleum ivan, from the main attraction of this place, since any movement
produced in one of them is automatically reflected not only in the other minaret, but even in the
whole ivan. Hence, the popular name "Minar-i Jonban". The architectural style of the monument is
that of the Mogul period. The ivan of the mausoleum has been ornamented with four-pointed and polygonal
azure tiles, and an inscription on the tombstone reads as follows:
(This is the tomb of the virtuous, god-fearing Sheikh, "amu Abdollah ibn Muhammad ibn Mahmud Saqla,
my God bless his soul. Dated (17th Zil-Hijja, 716 A.H.).
"Minar Jonban (shaking minaret), entrance ivan"
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